Demystifying Banjara Hills
The name ‘Banjara Hills’ often intrigued me even before I arrived in Hyderabad. This locality is world-renowned as the costliest zip code in India just after Jubilee Hills. Those who have seen Hyderabad grow into a cosmopolitan city, especially the elderly citizens, are amazed at how a ‘Banjar Zameen’ or wasteland that was occupied by thugs and gypsies turned into a happening and throbbing center of activity. The land that was once covered by gravity-defying rocks, thus the name hills, was gradually urbanized. Now palatial mansions, swanky malls, high-end designer boutiques, pubs, and café s vie for attention. However, the name ‘Banjara Hills’ remains the same as an ode to its first settlers and a mysterious past. There are many interesting stories or legends behind the nomenclature of this famous locality that can answer the question of why let’s discover them together-
Anita George the author of the photo-essay- ‘Of Thugs and Gypsies’ A heritage walk in Banjara Hills’ describes her visit to the Rock Castle, the oldest surviving building in Banjara Hills with Hyderabad Trails (the organization that arranges heritage walk in the city and relates untold stories behind famous places), which now has become a popular location for shooting films-Rock castle offers a peep into the past since some very old buildings and rocks have been preserved here. The present owner of Rock Castle informs that the old buildings inside the premise were once the residence of the wives of the advisors to Nizams who were mostly of noble descent.
The fort-like precinct of Rock Castle also houses ancient rocks that are as old as Earth itself. Gopal Krishna AB, the founder of Hyderabad Trails mentions, “If we consider that Earth was born on 1st January — then these rocks came into existence on 1st March — and we human beings were born on the noon of 31st Dec! They survived this time, but we mere “specks of dust” are erasing them with unbridled construction!” These gravity-defying rocks that once were a common sight in the city are fast disappearing due to rapid urbanization. These rocks that form the Deccan plateau date to 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 billion years old. These rocks that form the Banjara Hills are a precious natural heritage that is worth preserving. But that’s a discussion for another day!
However, this most sought-after locality in Hyderabad is named after its first settlers- the Banjaras or the gypsies. They were the merchants, grain suppliers, and informants for the Mughal army in the Deccan but now they are the marginalized community who work as laborers and farmers. The Banjara women can be easily distinguished by their vibrant clothes and jewelry. It is hard to imagine that the modern Banjara Hills was covered with forests and was home to thugs, tigers, and gypsies. This area was a hilly forest and the hunting ground for Nizams. The thugs made this place very unsafe as they looted travelers of their wealth and hid their treasure in the nook and crannies that the rocks provided, the folklore states that the treasure hunters are still in search of the precious booty.
The stories of Banjaras or gypsies have always fired our imagination and their supernatural powers are a part of folklore. I have often come across beautifully decked Banjara women who wear vibrant ghagra choli with mirror and intricate embroidery work, their braided hair is tied at the end with cowries or baubles and distinctive silver jewelry with tribal motifs. The odhni or veil covers their back and reaches down to their feet is also ornate with embroidery. They also wear large white bangles. One look at their colorful traditional ensemble will remind you of the Rajasthani ladies. So here is the connection, these nomadic tribes were known as Lambadis or Sugalis were originally from Rajasthan and they moved towards the south in batches. They started moving with their family towards the south by crossing the Vindhya range in bullock carts during the 14th century when Mughal emperor Aurangzeb was invading and plundering the Deccan. That’s how they became the oldest inhabitants of this area now called Banjara Hills.
The origin of the Lambadis date back to 2000 years ago and they are the descendants of the Roma gypsies of Europe who crossed Afghanistan to settle down in Rajasthan. British annalist Captain Briggs informs that each Banjara tribe owned at least 50,000–60,000 cattle and thus they were commissioned by both the Mughals and the British to carry grains and arms to the army barracks. Since they were tough mountain tribes they often doubled up as spies. As a result, they settled around the army camps. Banjaras held a proud place as tradesmen, grain carriers, and informants for marching armies and they became so popular that a gate in the Golconda fort was named after them. Since they worked as informants or spies, their freedom of movement was curbed by the British and eventually they settled down in the Deccan.
During the Nizam’s time, there were 20–30 lambada groups and they had 100s and 1000s of cattle. They had a good rapport with the Nizam and when they wanted to settle down in Banjara Hills, they easily got permission. Nizam gave 1329 acres of land to the Banjaras for their contribution to the army of the Mughals, Nizams, and the British. The area where the Annapurna Film School stands today was a hilly forest inhabited by at least 250 members of the Banjara community.
There is another stock of Lambadis who hails from Maharashtra and are referred to as ‘Are.’ They speak in a dialect which is a combination of Marathi and Telugu and they mostly work as farmers. The lambada is of Rajasthani origin speaks a dialect that is a mix of Sanskrit, Rajasthani, and Gujarati. Many banjaras have taken up sundry jobs and drive rickshaws. They have adjusted to modern times, but it is the dress of the Banjara women that remind us of who they are.
Nothing much has changed in terms of the traditions, ceremonies, and customs of the Lambadis. They are a happy lot and are gives into merrymaking often, just like old times. They are now a marginalized community in Hyderabad living in tandas or hamlets in mud huts. Each tanda is supervised by a leader on whom they have blind faith. They also worship Lord Balaji and share Hindu religious beliefs.
The younger generation of banjaras are not itinerant travelers like their ancestors, they have settled down in mud huts and work as agriculturalists, contractors, and laborers. Though illiterate they have a sharp memory and are generally good with numbers. Though getting a college education, proper healthcare and employment is a dream for them they never give up on hard work and living a life filled with celebration.
These early inhabitants of Hyderabad were also ecologically conscious, and they built their settlements around the rocks without disturbing their unique formations. Banjara Hills that was once a hilly forest is now hills just in name. Today Banjara Hills is the premier piece of land after Jubilee Hills where the real estate costs around Rs. 96,000 crores or more!
Banjara Hills wouldn’t get its prestigious status if it wasn’t for the efforts of Syed Mohammed Mehdi better known as Nawab Mehdi Nawaz Jung. He was the minister of the Nizam and worked in the revenue department. He was awarded the title ‘Jung’ for his contribution to the Nizam’s government. It was him who bought 200 acres of land from a person named Moin Yar Jung in 1927 who was happy to get rid of the wasteland or ‘Banjar Zameen’. Then Mehdi Nawaz Jung built a ‘cave’ house out of the existing rocks in 1930 and named it Kohistan and encouraged his friends to settle here offering them each 5–6 acres of land at a nominal price. He also ensured that they received a free supply of water and electricity for six months. That’s how modern Banjara Hills took shape. That’s how he became the ‘Father of Modern Banjara Hills’. The roads of Banjara Hills are numbered from one to 14 and each has its special significance.
The last Nizam Osman Ali Khan proposed that Banjara Hills should be named after Mehdi Nawaz Jung as he was responsible for its development. Since Nawab Saheb was a kind and humble man he named it after its original inhabitants the Banjaras. He continued his social work and even donated his eyes in his will after his death in 1967. Road number 1 Banjara Hills bears his name, but that tribute is not enough for a multi-faceted man like him and his innumerable contributions for Hyderabad, especially for the development of Banjara Hills. It is fascinating to note that his residence Kohistan reflects his love and respect for the natural landmarks- the gravity-defying rocks of Banjara Hills. Kohistan was also known as Banjara Bhawan and it is believed that Mehdi Yar Jung was influenced by the works of Antoni Gaudi while building his residence.
Narendra Luther, who is an authority on Hyderabad’s history writes in his book ‘Legendotes of Hyderabad’ that when Poet Laureate Rabindranath Tagore visited Kohistan as a guest of Mehdi Nawaz Jung in 1933, he loved the place so much that he said that he would have settled down here if he didn’t have Shanti Niketan to look after. He composed a poem on Kohistan and Banjara Hills and translated it into English himself. Here goes the poem-
‘From the distance thou didst appear
barricaded in rocky aloofness,
Timidly I crossed the rugged path
to find here all of a sudden.
An open invitation in the sky,
and friends embrace in the air,
In an unknown land the voice that seemed ever known,
Revealed to be a shelter of loving intimacy.’
Even Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru visited Kohistan during his stay in Hyderabad.
This is how Banjara Hills got its name.
This article was published in the e-magazine The Pottluck
