Dial H for Haleem
Will Ramzaan be complete without a plate wholesome haleem? Come Ramzaan and you will find Haleem bhattis lining up the streets of Hyderabad, churning up 100% Irani haleem This Middle East dish made popular by the eat-outs like Sarvi, Pista House, Shah Ghouse, and Hotel Madina, received the GI status. It is the first non-vegetarian dish to receive this GI status! So next time when you associate biriyani with Hyderabad doesn’t forget to mention haleem! Haleem is sold all year long by Hotel Greenpark and many other eateries as a snack but during Ramzaan this dish gets extra attention! The entire Muslim community goes into fasting and prayer in the holy month of Ramzaan , which lasts for twenty-nine to thirty days depending on the sighting of the crescent moon. They break the Iftar fast with a bowl of haleem which is not only delicious but nutritious too.
Sarvi owner Mirza Ali J. says, “The tradition of cooking haleem dates back to 400 years, it was served as Tabarouk in mosques in Iran during the time of Ramzaan and Muharram. This inspired Aga Hussain Zabed, an Iranian, to start the haleem tradition in Hyderabad on a mass scale.” However the owner of Shah Ghouse, Md. Rabbani says that the dish originated from Arabia and was brought to India during the Mughal era, the Nizam of Hyderabad tasted the haleem and loved it and thus it became so famous. He further adds that just like the Taj Mahal is famous the world over so is Hyderabadi Haleem. Chef Anurudh Gupta of Melange (The Golconda Hotel) states, that haleem in Hyderabad stated from the Muslim populated area of Barkas, where haleem is served at home as a breakfast. Keeping aside the story of its origin, one has to agree that Haleem stands for unity and brotherhood since the entire family comes together at the table to taste the haleem after breaking the evening fast. Both Hindus and Muslims look forward to Ramzaan for the special bowl of haleem, and this also when the famous haleem makers of Hyderabad fight for attention. Each establishment has its unique taste, due to the special blend of spices used, and the recipe remains top secret! Mirza Ali J. says, “my colleagues are also unaware of what spices I use in the Haleem, I mix it at home and bring it so that no one comes to know about it.” Surely you will need a James bond to crack this code!
Md. Rabbani of Shah Ghouse says, “The preparation of haleem starts two months before the Ramzaan, when the vessels for cooking haleem comes out from the storeroom. We use sherbeti gehu, ghee, potleka ghosht, elaichi, shah jeera, dalchini, kebab cheeni, kalimirch, laung, badam pista and kaju to cook our haleem. It cooks for eight to ten hours and then we allow two hours for the dish to settle.” Red chili is never used in cooking haleem only black pepper is favoured. Cooking the Iranian haleem requires tons of patience on the part of the chef; he needs to continuously churn the haleem with wooden paddles till it turns into a fine paste. A good haleem is one in which you cannot distinguish the ingredients The haleem is cooked over a slow fire for twelve hours in large cauldrons covered with bricks and mud kiln, known as bhattis, and is served directly from the cooking vessel. The haleem is served hot with deep-fried onions, a slice of lemon and some also garnish it with mint leaves. Joydeep Mazumdar of Greenpark Hotel says, “the original haleem is made of beef but the Iranian version uses mutton, however, some chefs also incorporate chicken 65 to give it that extra spicy edge! The haleem served at our kiosk is cooked in a traditional way and is priced at Rs. 100 per parcel.” Some restaurants hire Irani chefs especially for the Ramzaan season to cook authentic haleem. Breaking people’s fast at Iftar earns rewards and many eateries also organize charity haleem events where they distribute haleem, khichra, and khatta to the poor. It’s a very busy time for the owners of Sarvi, Shah Ghouse, and Pista House, which are household names in Hyderabad when it comes to pure Irani haleem. Vivanta By Taj at Begumpet has a special offer to its elite clientele this Ramzaan-an overnight stay at the premium indulgence room at the price of 7999 inclusive of tax on double occupancy, a tour of the night bazar in Charminar, and a traditional ceremonial dining experience termed Dastarkhwan during Iftar and Suhoor comprising Nawabi and Arabic delicacies.
Haleem is very different from the Arabic Harissa, while having Harissa you will have to chew the pieces of whole wheat and mutton but in the case of haleem you find it in a paste form. Hyderabadi haleem is very different from the haleem served in Kolkata and Mumbai. At Kolkata, Arsalan sells haleem, which is more like a stew of mutton, rice and lentils blended together, one has to have the chunks of mutton separately. The Pakistani version khichra comes with cubes of meat, the Turkish version of haleem sold in Anatolia, and the Caucasian region is known as keşkek. These are all close cousins of haleem, but Irani haleem is only made of meat, pounded wheat, ghee, milk, lentils, ginger and garlic paste, turmeric, cumin seeds, caraway seeds, allspice, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, black pepper, saffron, jaggery, dry fruits, and natural gum all blended into a thick paste. Those who are very health conscious and are apprehensive of consuming ghee should know that haleem is a good source of protein, fiber, and vitamins! A bowl of piping hot haleem will not only make you feel great but energetic too! It is a meal in itself and needs no side dish!
Haleem can be cooked at home too. Those who are tired of standing in queues after a whole day of fasting can follow this simple recipe at home to cook haleem. Here it goes-
Haleem Recipe
Ingredients: (4 servings)
1 pound (1/2 kg) skinless turkey breast (You may substitute as much chicken or meat)
1 large sliced onion
1/2 pound wheat seeds or Bulgur (pre-shelled, white wheat)
For garnishing:
cinnamon
sesame
sugar (optional)
butter (optional)
Directions:
Place turkey, onion, and salt in a pot. Lower heat and cook until turkey is done (about 1 hour)
Add the bulgur and enough water to barely cover ingredients (1 lt. is enough), then bring to a boil in a pot.
Stir occasionally, to prevent the formation of a crust on the bottom of the pan.
If juices evaporate before the turkey is done, add 1/4 cup water.
When turkey is cooked, remove it from the pot and mash it with a potato masher.
In a food processor, mash bulgur into a soft paste and set aside.
Return turkey and bulgur to the pot, mix well, and cook over low heat for 2 hours. Then add butter, sugar, and sesame and let them be mixed.
Serve it in a bowl, sprinkled with cinnamon
Ramzaan is not only the time for solemn prayer and fasting, it is a prelude to Eid, a time for a great feast. Other than haleem many eateries offer biriyani, paya shorba, khichri, khatta, kheema, bhajji burga, kebabs, pathar ka ghosht, yakhni pulao, and the like. Nothing like settling down for an exotic feast with your family after a whole day of prayer. For desserts the eateries usually sell the famous Kubani ka meetha, or stewed apricots served hot with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, and also Double ka meetha or bread pudding. These dishes are strongly rooted in Hyderabadi culture and have become an art form. So why wait, reserve a seat in your favourite restaurant and have a fantafabulous Ramzaan!
This article was published in Times City Hyderabad
